Who says that limitations can’t foster creativity? Sometimes it’s quite the contrary. Kym Ellery’s Pre-Fall collection had all the ingredients to make it a proposition strong enough for the catwalk. The designer’s most interesting characteristic, which is an artsy, progressive approach to shapes, volumes, and proportions, was well in evidence, smartly translated into believable, desirable pieces. As she said, “They’re unique but easy to wear.”
There’s a romantic modernity in Ellery’s vision, a compelling interest in nostalgic silhouettes reinvented for today. This season, she looked for inspiration in what she called simpler times. The conservative lifestyle of Amish communities and the free-love spirit of the ’70s in Britain and America seemed to be apropos. They’re rather opposite aesthetics, really, but the duality fueled a balancing game of deconstruction, with architectural, almost severe elements softened by feminine flourishes.
Cases in point were the cascading sculptural frills that punctuated the collection and the bibs that merged with leather minidresses, as well as the small handkerchief-hemmed aprons–slash–ruched corsets worn with shirts featuring exaggerated cuffs. On the same note, voluminous round sleeves introduced an almost Elizabethan flair, contrasting in black leather on a linear white dress. The same imaginative audacity was highlighted by the elaborate pearl bras and bibs decorating wide-leg pantsuits, as well as the artsy handcrafted belt buckles carved from mother-of-pearl. Tailoring and outerwear were proposed in oversize versions; a classic trenchcoat got the deconstruction treatment via a bold take on cut. Ankle grazing and slightly padded, it looked like it could weather even the chilliest French snowstorm.
