The sixth installment of Peter Dundas’s eponymous collection will be delivered in May, following a see-now-buy-now formula that’s apparently successful so far. “May is when they start traveling,” he said, referring to his globe-trotting, party-loving posse of fans. At that time of year, they’re probably hopping on (private) planes for far-flung, exotic destinations.
Dundas is a designer who shares his clients’ wanderlust; in his world, life and work blend seamlessly together. His boyfriend, Evangelo Bousis, is also his business partner and a source of inspiration, so much so that the new collection actually revolves around a vintage African batik caftan that belongs to him. Dundas translated the motifs into a linen print for one of the many minidresses that peppered the lineup: big-shouldered, one-sleeved, ruffled, and draped on the hips, with a touch of black lace peeking seductively underneath.
This collection didn’t stray from Dundas’s true-and-tested recipe: a sexy, unabashedly glamorous look, where free-spirited ’70s bohemia blends with the audacity of the ’80s. A long, sensual number in purple chiffon worn with a matching cape played against a pair of black leather sequined shorts paired with a leather brassiere; an asymmetrical ruffle-hemmed, one-sleeved dress in printed silk jacquard contrasted with a military-inspired mini tunic in khaki cotton canvas, redolent of Yves Saint Laurent’s famous safari look. A bit of soft tailoring was added for good measure, but in Dundas-land, anything boardroom-ready wouldn’t do; a shimmering golden blazer, worn over a matching jumpsuit with a plunging neckline would be well suited for an alluring, genetically blessed Jerry Hall type.
It is rather obvious that Dundas’s fashion propositions aren’t for everyone, so how is he addressing today’s inclusivity debate? “My collections are for women who are not afraid to be seen, who like to shine,” he said. Witnessing the rather perplexed expression of this reviewer, he added: “In my collections one can also find loose-shaped options like caftans or fluid dresses; we’ve moved up the sizing. I feel lucky to have the chance of dressing actresses and performers, but with the same respect I also dress women in their ’60s and even in their ’80s, or my nieces who are in their 20s.”
While it’s true that his made-to-measure, couture offering caters to a wider private clientele with different needs, his style definitely calls for a good dose of confidence to be embraced. “I don’t want women to be confident in order to wear my clothes,” he said. “I want them to feel confident when they’re wearing them! For me it’s about giving confidence, not requiring confidence. There are so many ways to express glamour. It’s not a matter of age or of body type, but more about a state of mind: My women all love to celebrate life.”