Exoticism was top of mind for Carly Cushnie this season. The designer, who is now on her third official collection as head designer after her partner Michelle Ochs departed the brand, looked to three very distinct references while conceptualizing her Pre-Fall 2019 lineup. First came Jean Larivière’s Cartier campaign from the 1950s, which features a doorman opening the high jewelry shop to a live leopard. Secondly, Cushnie looked to the 1980s excess featured throughout the film Coming to America, particularly the flora-and-fauna-filled scenes inside King Jaffe Joffer’s gilded African palace. Finally, there was an early 2000s installation by the artist Cai Guo-Qiang titled Heritage. In it, an array of animal sculptures including tigers, giraffes, and zebras surround a watering hole; the work is meant to symbolize harmony in the natural world.
In terms of print and silhouette, these three inspirations present a lot to work with. But even if Cushnie might have gone overboard with the leopard and the gold and the glamour, she demonstrated a sense of smart restraint. A black minidress with bunched tulle covering the arms and shoulders was a fantastic example of Cushnie’s ability to inject flair without losing her signature minimalist aesthetic. The multi-paneled, partially pleated skirt that incorporated bits of leopard print with black, bronze, and marigold was a standout in this category too. Her evening gowns were of particular note. Only a baby blue suit felt out of step. On the whole, this was a well-rounded offering of the new Cushnie wardrobe: still sleek and streamlined but refreshingly wild, too.