“I want all women to take part in my brand, not just women on stage,” said Christian Cowan at an appointment for his first Pre-Fall collection. With a succinct 15 looks, Cowan made it his mission to distill his haute camp aesthetic into items that would sit within the “average”—average meaning still sequin-loving and dripping in crystals—woman’s wardrobe. He did a crystal net checkerboard bodysuit for those aspiring to Cardi B levels of drama, but there was also a Kelly green perforated polo with a few rhinestones studded about for a more casual take on glitz. An itty-bitty golden minidress covered in sequins looked worthy of a star turn, while black minis with kitschy watch-band straps offered an easier, even practical, option.
That’s not to imply that the overt fabulosity of Cowan’s work is gone, it’s just wisely evolved into something marketable and shoppable while still being Instagrammable. He credits feedback he received as a finalist for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund for giving him the idea of a more streamlined collection of essentials. He’s also learned from his clients—Paris Hilton, Priyanka Chopra, and Miley Cyrus, among them—that even showgirls need something to wear for a quick coffee run. See: the vegan leather miniskirt he made with Cyrus in mind, or the sustainably sourced feather knit Chopra wore for her bachelorette party. That’s another thing: Even on the small budget of a young designer, he’s finding ways to be eco-friendly. Cowan’s future looks bright—and not just because of the glimmering light reflecting from his hand-sewn paillette moto jacket.
