“How do you make elegance speak to a new generation? By breaking the myth that elegance has to be uptight.” Wes Gordon took the reins at Carolina Herrera less than a year ago, but he gives quotes like a seasoned pro. His Pre-Fall collection exudes a certain confidence, too. Under his leadership, the Herrera vocabulary is expanding; the signature flamboyance is present, but he’s also making room for a surprising new sense of minimalism.
Take, for example, a peacock green silk wool pantsuit. In the past, the jacket might’ve come with three-quarter sleeves, the shape trim and cropped; now, the silhouette is ultra-streamlined, the only curving lines at the slightly accentuated hips. Gordon gave the atelier’s expert tailor, who happens to be a woman, credit for the suit, as well as for a dramatic to-the-floor black tuxedo dress and a shorter tuxedo dress in sapphire with an exuberant bow at the waist and flamingo pink lining. With tailoring trending elsewhere in the market, those were three smart developments.
Not all of the innovations came across quite as well. The crystal embroidery decorating cotton shirtdresses seemed a bit unlikely. But that was a small thing, and in general, Gordon’s approach was well considered. On the more flamboyant side of the story, he pointed out a ruffled bustier in that same shade of flamingo pink. It was as effortlessly constructed as possible, where it once would’ve been heavily boned. The evening offering was characterized by a weightless insouciance that felt youthful and modern, from a silver paillette-strewn ivory tulle T-shirt dress to what Gordon described as a “goddess nun” robe in sweeping black and white chiffon.
