Andrew Gn prefaced this showroom visit by saying he had named his Pre-Fall collection Tiramisu, even though the coffee-drenched dessert was unrelated to the designs. “It brings joy and happiness,” he explained. “In these times, who wouldn’t want a pick-me-up?”
Of course, the pleasure of tiramisu lasts only until the final spoonful, whereas one of Gn’s new suit jackets in mauve or teal could be enjoyed for years. He noted how including tailored pieces was important to him this season—not just as a juxtaposition to his usual ladylike dresses, but as a stand-alone statement reflecting his appreciation for detail. Shoulders, for instance, had been constructed with horsehair canvas as traditionally done on Savile Row. And the colors were not insignificant, even if they seemed limiting. You need only consider Kate Middleton or various female politicians to know that an allover color statement can signal controlled expression.
But Gn will always have a penchant for pretty prints, and some from this season came with a personal story. The designer’s father, when traveling for work, would bring his mother fabrics from places including Indonesia and Japan, which she would have made into dresses. Finding some of these back in Singapore, Gn reimagined them as his own creations, which ranged in style from elevated-bohemian to princess-worthy. Cut sharp and slim, the brocade suit was a fine résumé of the collection; but more important, it could look fantastic for a formal function if ever gown fatigue sets in.
It was a pleasure to see Gn proudly showing off a duo motif of pears and butterflies (spot the caterpillar holes in the leaves!) that were hand-painted in house and placed on even more dress variations, some trimmed with glinting floral embroideries or passementerie. When a collection brings joy to its designer, it radiates outward.
