Sandro missed a trick when it presented pretty ruffled blouses and dresses printed with cowboy boots in looks that also featured cowboy boots: It should have printed the garments on the shoes to complete a perfectly symmetric referential knot. That is the only real criticism of a winning collection that was a nicely judged mishmash of ’80s uptown and Western seen through a commercially minded Parisian lens.
A très chic blue trench coat with a pleated back, various pieces of tailoring in houndstooth (called pique de poule, or “chicken feet,” in French), printed or metallic woven jacquard dresses, and jacquard suiting all hit the Madison tone. The Western contamination began in frankly Chanel-y bouclé jackets hemmed in acid-washed denim, then carried over into fringed overcoats, the boots, the printed blouses, and so on. It was a simple formula nicely executed with a lip-smacking twist of tacky—Lurex leggings, that acid wash—which the mixologist fixing mocktails at the door of this crowded presentation would have surely hat-tipped.
