Ralph Lauren thinks of fashion in cinematic terms. Beyond the movie stars who line his front row, the magic of Hollywood is never too far from his runway. It’s why the dress code for his show tonight specifically called for black-and-white evening attire. Stepping inside “Ralph’s Club,” the ballroom on Wall Street where the designer held his show, was like stumbling onto a 1920s film set. Elegant Art Deco chandeliers illuminated the room’s monochrome trimmings—sleek white leather banquets, lacquered black floors—while a terrific jazz band provided the soundtrack as guests arrived. Leading lady Cate Blanchett clearly got the memo. The Australian actress, who was one of several celebrities who attended the show, appeared on the scene in a cool tuxedo-style black jumpsuit to make Daisy Buchanan reconsider her flapper dresses.
That classically tailored silhouette, known as Le Smoking to the French, was the cornerstone of the collection. It’s a natural starting point for Lauren, who honed his approach to womenswear 50 years ago by adapting men’s shirting and suiting, first for his wife Ricky, then for Diane Keaton, who wore some of his earliest pieces on-screen in Woody Allen’s Annie Hall. With a crystal-studded herringbone overcoat thrown over her shoulders and a bow tie to fasten her tuxedo shirt, Gigi Hadid seemed to be channeling that energy as she sauntered around the tables to the sound of Frank Sinatra’s “Night and Day.” There were primary-color variations on the theme, too—satin tuxedo jackets in red, blue, and yellow—though the strongest were cut in classic black and white, including one that came with a luxurious velvet robe in place of a blazer.
About midway through the show, Hadid’s younger sister Bella glided down the runway, switching the show into high gear with a show-stopping red sequin gown. It was a reminder that Lauren understands the standalone power of a gorgeous red carpet dress.
Still, the best cameo of the night was yet to come. With her tiny frame perched on five-inch platform heels, Janelle Monáe took to the stage in a halter-neck tuxedo dress with a billowing tulle and plaid skirt. She performed a medley of Jazz Age anthems, including an electrifying rendition of “Let’s Face the Music and Dance,” bringing the whole audience to their feet. (By that point, Monáe was in full cabaret singer mode; having kicked off her shoes, she was climbing on tables and prowling around the room on hands and knees.) Lauren, who sat with his family in the crowd after taking his bow, appeared to be fully immersed in the experience when Monáe handed him the mic for an impromptu karaoke session. Like all the most memorable movie moments, it was totally unscripted.
