A darkened room and strange, vaguely menacing flooring: Welcome to the Fall 2019 collections, which neared their gloomy, emo end this afternoon with Miuccia Prada’s showing for Miu Miu. This time, the black-walled corridors and felted carpet insulation led the way to a catwalk lined with illuminated photographs, video screens, and stacks of vintage televisions showing work by the young New Zealand–born, London-based artist Sharna Osborne. Disheveled teens in lingerie, blinking eyes, darkened windows, discarded Disney-theme toys, Dolly Parton, and roses, lots of roses: This is the bewitching mash-up of innocence and perversity, wonder, and loss, that speaks to fairy tales and allegories, and that has often defined the stubborn, soulful, and yet partial-to-sparkle Miu Miu girl.
Come Fall, that girl (or woman, although, warning, this is a collection that skews young) will wear a cape, be it tweed or crocheted, of faux leather or hearty canvas. It’s a diverse and plentiful assortment covering heritage, utility, artisanal, and evening; Miuccia Prada chose to highlight the cape because it is a garment that nods to both history and protection, and she sees in young people a desire to clothe themselves in something with meaning, given the perilous state of the world, and especially the environment.
And so, to stand tall in a profoundly harsh climate, a young person of today needs that swagger, as well as a floral backpack (trend item!), a baby doll or mini skater dress (loveliest in cherry blossoms), a chain mail collar (why not?), and a boot or sandal with a massive and humorously unsightly mountain of tread and sole. (These are the ugliest ugly shoes ever, and that’s a feat worthy of high praise in fashion land.) The stay-up tights are decorated with jewels and flowers, and there are glittery heels and velvet flats, all the touch points of the magpie Miu Miu wardrobe. The overall look is clever and romantic, and says something akin to this: I’ve been through the woods. I’ve gotten past the wolf. I like fairy tales, but I don’t live in one. I know the forest from the trees.