Isabel Marant’s nomadic roots always inform her inspiration. More often than not, her muse is the archetypal global traveler with a taste for style and adventure. This evening, the French designer took many of her most recognizable signatures on an urban safari of sorts, conjuring the scene with a palette of sandy neutrals and earth tones that recalled a desert landscape.
An ’80s vibe has been in the air across the board this season, which is undoubtedly Marant’s sweet spot: Strong shoulders, nipped waists, and peg legs have long been a recurring theme in the brand’s repertoire. Marant never loses sight of the female form, in fact she’s one of the few designers who can make a turtleneck look sexy—a particularly alluring look from the lineup was a draped, high-neck top that was paired with a charming rock-candy printed wrap skirt. The only insinuation of skin was the tiniest sliver that appeared between thigh-high boot and boho wrap skirt.
Neo-bohemianism has been making a tentative comeback on the runway for the last couple of seasons, though for Marant that free-spirited mood never left. The colorful, quilted jackets were reminiscent of classic pieces in her archives, and will likely have success with her fans the second time around. Judging by the French It girls and Parisian editors on the front row, so will those cone-heeled slouchy boots.
There’s no doubt that Marant has a winning formula for French girl cool—her best-selling L’Oréal collection of barely there makeup is certainly proof of that, and was a sensation all over the world. Still, it would be nice to see Marant break the mold with the casting of her shows. Her clothes certainly appeal to a wide audience across age, size, and race: representing more of those women on her runway would send a powerful global message.
