After a few seasons when Blumarine’s style was drifting in rather awkward directions, attempting to surf trendy waves but landing instead in amateurish territories, the Fall show felt like a palate cleanser. Thankfully, gone were the au courant streetwear and sporty inspirations, which felt forced and at odds with the label’s hyperfeminine, romantic approach, all floor-sweeping flimsy chiffon numbers and ingénue lacy minidresses.
Backstage before the show, Signora Anna Molinari, the petite dynamo who founded the company in 1977 with her late husband, Gianpaolo Tarabini, sounded upbeat and optimistic and fully involved in getting her beloved label back on track. “This collection is my Blumarine: There’s everything I’ve always liked,” she enthused.
So out came short, black, taffeta-ruffled pannier skirts topped by fitted, cropped, leopard-print jackets; delightful black velvet minidresses with feathered bustiers or asymmetrical white Chantilly-lace-and-chiffon cocktail frocks with trailing sashes. Black varnished leather added a touch of louche glamour, while the signature Blumarine red roses were printed on tiered taffeta ballerina dresses or embroidered on glittering evening numbers. It certainly wasn’t something that will change the future of fashion, but it felt fresh and well-edited, with a spirited allure appealing to a young audience.
The lesson for designers and labels alike here is this: Do not blindly court fleeting trends just hoping to win over zillions of Instagram followers. Adjusting to the times but consistently sticking to what you’re best at is actually the smartest option for long-term success.
