Now that Barbara Bui has made a commitment to menswear, it seems as though she has a fresh perspective on her women’s collection. For Fall, she not only revisited the high-visibility color-blocking of previous seasons but also layered in electric florals, craft embellishments, deconstructed concert tees, and an overall attitude of eclecticism. If you’re thinking your black-on-black wardrobe needs some graphic kick, you could do worse than find it here.
Indeed, amidst these myriad themes was the sense that Bui was allowing her designs to breathe and to be expressive. There was more fluidity to the dresses, whether in velvet or pleated silk, and more personality in the outfit assembling. While many pieces were stand-alone statements—see the bicolor shearlings, an embellished patchwork pencil skirt, and patterned velvet boots—they had even more impact when styled assertively, and in ways that seemed atypically Barbara Bui.
In fact, the designer said she was reexploring ideas that date back to her earliest years, namely the multicultural flourishes and the rock-chic vibe. If these ideas seem less original today and are executed impactfully elsewhere, it was nonetheless nice to see Bui so enthusiastic. And when these glam-meets-grunge looks hit stores, chances are that customers will be enthusiastic, too.
