If grunge is emerging as a major theme this season, it must be said that some of the interpretations feel more legit and persuasive than others. Luke Meier was living in Seattle during the early ‘90s; the music, the aesthetic, and the scene turned into firsthand memories. Some of this found its way into his latest OAMC collection, but he took great care to avoid the obvious and advance it forward. “Grunge doesn’t have to look old and like it’s falling apart; it’s the attitude,” he said backstage. “Maybe even subconsciously, I wanted to make it newer, cleaner.”
He did so by realizing a collection that appeared expressive yet balanced—and unique from look to look. Utility, always a form-meets-function pillar of OAMC, felt different once again this season; Meier’s word for it was purity. Suit-type statements were assembled as staggered layers; flannel shirts were elongated and worn over matching second-skin sleeves; and technical coats in matte quilting or double-face check were elegantly finished from all angles. Further on in the lineup came oversize graphic intarsia sweaters and twisted textile necklaces that were more ornamental, yet evidenced Meier’s discerning eye. Indeed, a quick glance at the sneakers in pale surgical green and pink, developed with Adidas Originals, were the perfect antidote to all the steroid styles that remain popular.
On the subject of color, the collection’s pastel accords—pleasantly nonconformist in the midst of the lights and darks—and the use of latex were manifestations of another reference, Matthew Barney’s Cremaster Cycle, which Meier experienced while living in New York in the late ‘90s. “I was pretty lucky to be in these places at these times,” he quipped backstage. Ultimately, the collection emerged as highly personal; these were cultural moments that had left an indelible mark. As for the selection of sketches contributed by Daniel Johnston, Meier spoke of the outsider musician and artist in the highest terms. “What he does is real and honest and pure.” Accordingly, OAMC has committed to working with Johnston’s charity organization dedicated to mental health issues, simply named, Hi, How Are You.
