Walking into the Missoni showroom for its men’s presentation, the impression was of actually visiting a gallery. Installed in the center of the pristine white space were sculptures by the Swedish-Chilean artist Anton Alvarez. Part of a series called “Aerobic Alphabet,” the boldly colored organic formations were made using the Extruder, an imposing self-constructed three-ton machine that basically works like a big toothpaste tube, squeezing out ceramic paste in various tubular shapes. “I’ve been collecting his work for several years,” said Angela Missoni. “It’s textural, yet abstract; he also wraps architectural elements with colorful threads or yarns.”
The sensual, tactile aspect of Alvarez’s work resonates with the Missoni aesthetic and, indeed, it infused this men’s collection, which was designed with artsy types in mind. “I was thinking more of a gallery owner than of an actual artist,” said Missoni. “The style here is more soigné, a little more subtle, less eccentric.” There’s a new formality in the air this menswear season. The designer captured and Missoni-fied it via gently eccentric twists, most notably in the elongated silhouettes of knitted soft-tailored suits, whose beautiful tonal dégradés echo Alvarez’s vibrant color palette.
The collaboration with the artist proved fruitful, also inspiring the design of a few gorgeous jumpers: Abstract patterns were knitted on flecked mohair, while undulating motifs were hand-embroidered on an oversize turtleneck sweater. Worn with high-waisted, tapered, loom-knitted pants, they looked cool enough to appeal to fastidious artsy types. Yet discriminating as they may be, they won’t be able to resist the glamour of ’70s-inspired tuxedos in woven lamé, worn with debonair plissé string scarves. Gallery owners or artists, they’re all peacocks in disguise.
