Held in the Mobilier National—the French government ministry for state furniture—this was a chair lover’s dream. Véronique Nichanian’s designs displayed not a hint of forniphilia (mais non!), but the love applied to the upholstery upon her models was reflected in the fantasy-Ikea surroundings of a venue heaped with Régence, Directoire, Louis XI, Art Deco, Charles X, and much more besides. Alongside me, Hamish Bowles was suffused in raptures.
But the clothes? Well, ce soir, Nichanian tweaked her silhouette un peu with a longer jacket and a delicately carrot-cut pant that will require plenty of shoe consideration—it was cut high—among Hermès-phrodites. That dragon-etched buttons, fire-hemmed knitwear, and dragon jacquard suiting were a flight of fancy reconsideration of Pegasus. Fire.
Very enjoyable from a pun-inclined writer’s point of view on bombers and overcoats were the silver linings. Yet annoyingly, there were no clouds against which to contrast them. If you’re the type of man lucky enough to purchase Hermès before, this collection will make you want to buy it again. And the irony? That we sat on really boring black-stained birch benches, which really could have hailed from Ikea. Looks do furnish a room.
