“There’s this melancholy that comes from always being told we’ve gone past the point of no return,” said GmbH’s Benjamin Alexander Huseby after his and Serhat Isik’s combination Fall women’s and men’s show. Huseby was referring to planet Earth and the all but irreparable damage we’ve inflicted upon it. That gloom, though, served as the propellant for an outstanding collection—one that took an idea of an exodus, away from here, and dressed it up. Basically, Huseby and Isik gave our great escape some dignity—this was their ritziest lineup by far—while still retaining the burlier imprints of their established aesthetic (see: lots of uses of their hammer and pick logo; muscle-flaunting flourish-printed rash guards; utilitarian toolbox clutches).
A man in a sculpted-waist officer’s coat (with mock backpack straps applied to it) and a woman in a similarly dyed, logo-smattered blazer might very well have been the cocaptains of this scorched-earth abdication. There was also somewhat of a decadence in the departure; a dry Champagne-color suit glinted in the overhead lights and broke generously at the knee, giving the pant a sort of flowing boot-cut shape. Likewise, a long-sleeved dress in steely blue had GmbH’s floral and metal motifs printed through the torso—evacuation, but make it evening. The only stumble was a sullied denim series; the painted mottling felt too artsy or hasty for this grand expedition.
Huseby and Isik have long commented on immigration and relocation through their clothes. Said the former, in conclusion: “Leaving this planet is the ultimate migration, right?”