Following their appointment as the incoming creative directors at Nina Ricci, Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh moved to Paris from Antwerp. Botter, the menswear label they cofounded that received the grand prize at last year’s Hyères Festival, has moved with them. A visit to their studio in the east end of the city made clear that, while these roles remain separate entities, their new life here—see the Botter in Paris tops—has already inspired them to dynamic effect.
Similar to their previous three collections, this latest offering tapped into their shared Caribbean heritage (Curaçao on his side, the Dominican Republic on hers) and Amsterdam influence. Think of it as dapper deconstructed. There was an additional layer, one that developed from their acute observations of refugees throughout Paris, and more specifically, their resourcefulness with clothing. Hence the sweater sleeves fused to a suit jacket or a plissé top whose shape was derived from a plastic bag. Contemporary fashion that calls out disparity can be risky territory, but when they said their designs emerge “like a diary,” you get the sense these were personal interpretations, not political. Personal also came through as a T-shirt graphic that featured their mothers’ faces advertising shampoo. The blow-up dolphin accessories, meanwhile, were miniature versions of the hats shown at Hyères. The fact that one side of the face appeared smiling and the other scowling gives you a good sense of Botter’s underlying tone.
Several creations showcased a lively legerdemain, whether the electric green puffer that began as a pair of pants with arms filling out the legs, or jacket panels placed upside down, or the application of adjustable flaps. While these experiments may not be functionally necessary, they had next-gen Margiela appeal. “We like to search for the boundaries in menswear and cross them a little bit or not cross them—just play around, and not only with shape but also with fabrics,” Botter said.
Which brings us to the undisputed hero piece: an outerwear jacket that spoofs a preppy polo shirt, its piqué pink and green stripes meticulously bonded to a sculpted, neoprene-like material. An actual polo with frayed edges made just as much impact. The duo hinted that the Do you see us now T-shirt was mainly directed to those who doubted Botter’s potential. Touché. It’s good news for all, then, that Dover Street Market and Selfridges are among the retailers that will be carrying the collection. We should be seeing a lot more from the brand.