Uniform dressing is predictable by definition, though Phillip Lim is hoping to challenge that with his latest collection. It’s a thought he started pondering with women’s for Pre-Fall that he’s now exploring further with men’s for Fall. “People think of uniforms as monotonous, but they’re also so clever,” said Lim, who was dressed in a version of his everyday utilitarian uniform—black pegged trousers and a collarless puffer jacket—at his studio in Soho yesterday. “They present a system of dressing that’s really infinite in possibilities.”
The concept of a modular wardrobe lends itself to Lim, who has always been a bit of a fashion nerd about layering. Much of the techy microfiber outerwear here comes with that mind-set stitched into the seams. The detachable collars, sleeves, and vests certainly make light work of the manifold styling opportunities, at a time when men are leaning into fashion-forward workwear with gusto. With that in mind, Lim’s new lilac boilersuit zips the idea up into one easy, cool piece. Overall, the proportions—airy, oversize—fit the current mold of men’s fashion that’s been loosening up on both sides of the Atlantic.
Lim launched his first capsule collection for Fila last month, a collaboration that put his sporty impulses front and center. The residual effects of this project are pretty clear: Lim is honing the look of athleisure within his own design lexicon, gently twisting windbreakers, fanny packs, and plimsolls with unexpected prints and trompe l’oeil stitching. In the same way that leggings have taken the place of skinny jeans in a woman’s wardrobe, track pants have usurped denim in a man’s. Lim’s tailored, side-zippered pairs have tons of multipurpose appeal.
