The people at Kolor prepared two lookbooks for Spring. The first features the images you see here; the second recalls David Hockney’s photo collages, with the same looks now pieced together as though an exercise in deconstruction and reconstruction. Was this altered effect suggestive of Junichi Abe’s creative process? We weren’t able to ask, given that he didn’t make the Paris trip. But generally, the meticulous designer does not break down to build up, so much as assemble instinctively. And this season, by dialing up the color and dialing down the volumes, he achieved clothing that beamed with character.
What’s more, the collection seemed more active-inclined than usual, which an inspiration text confirmed: “We used tropical print with sportswear-inspired details and Pop-looking graphics in order to create a different nuance of elegance,” adding that the fabrics were chosen to “let the wind go through and change the silhouette.” Trust us when we say that the filmy botanical-print pieces that appear throughout were basically weightless; they felt and looked far more refined than the usual performance nylon. To the standard pull-cord, zip-front warm-up jacket, Abe applied satin and lace while steering clear of prissy; often, items like this prompt women to ask where they can get their own. Athletic stripes progressed to ribbon stripes in vivid hues whether arranged simply or in an optical patchwork. Kolor shows these pieces extra-extroverted, but they would have as much impact with a solid counterpoint. Collegiate references that appeared in the men’s collection carried over here, notably as an elongated letterman jacket with sheer sleeves, or as sweatshirts with breezy organza backs. Because they’re hard to see, it’s worth mentioning that belt loops on pants were replaced with small chains—a clever bit of decoration that could evolve into a brand signature. Overall, the offering was energizing; just one item updated to your wardrobe would have that effect.
