This past January, Rachel Wilder-Hill came away from her first trip to Mexico City with enough inspiration from the burgeoning art scene and vibrant street life to kick-start this latest Joie collection. By phone from L.A., the brand’s vice president of design explained how the clothes on display in the Paris showroom reflected some of her most salient observations; the Casa Luis Barragán’s rosy walls informed the soft pink suit that she considers her favorite look in the lineup, while artisanal embroideries were incorporated into everyday cotton blouses. The suit, she elaborated, gives every indication that the brand best known for its boho-chic vibe realizes there’s visual value in offsetting those softer silhouettes with a little structure (and for those who feel limited by the pink, the same style is offered in black). A little further on, had the model in the motorcycle jacket been photographed with her back to us, you would have seen the words ¡Viva la femme! hand-painted with flowers. But even those buds on her shirt signaled Spring’s craftsmanship message. A pair of bicolored jeans was a reminder that Joie doesn’t propose anything basic without treating it to a twist; the sporty pieces, for instance, boasted a ruffle-front yolk in addition to the standard stripes.
Given her point of departure—or perhaps just as a reflection of the moment—Wilder-Hill ended up with a more dimensional portrait of the Joie woman this season. From the bananas slogan tee to the breezy yellow sundress, the pieces read unfussy and fresh. She actually singled out the latter as a positive, personal souvenir of Mexico City before the devastation caused by the recent earthquake. “I can’t believe the timing,” she said, adamant that she would return. “Who knew this would become somewhat of an homage; because, for me, it was such an uplifting experience.” For now, if nothing more, her collection keeps the city top of mind.
