From her showroom in the Marais, Barbara Bui outlined the three pillars within her latest collection. She didn’t explicitly rank them, but their order seemed clear. She was proudest to show off denim pieces assembled entirely from vintage stock. The group, which will be produced in small quantities, included a spencer-style jacket with peaked lapels and leather cuffs, a flattering bustier, a one-shoulder minidress, a pair of jeans, and a basque formed like a jacket folded over. The lookbook styled these pieces together for maximum impact, but don’t feel obligated to do so. In each, the visible effort—figuring out a balance between the washes, and positioning the panels to play up their previous lives—was impressive. And sure, the concept may not be new, but Bui’s versions, all made in France, hold up well.
The second story channeled Studio 54 via fluid, flouncy party looks in silver and gold lamé, as well as a silk treated to resemble leather (this being Bui, there was actual leather, too). Several pieces featured zips that encourage the wearer to adapt a draped panel or remove a strap. The blouse can be styled several ways thanks to its low, cross-body construction, while the jumpsuit will inevitably appear less OTT when worn wrapped at the waist. In any case, few would protest having several different sexy options within a single look. One duly noted extra detail: micro studs that effervesced on collars and slip tops. Regarding the final statement, it was a return to allover white. Bui revisited the denim styles, also adding in flowy tops delineated with lacing. The flattering cut of the white jean—high waisted with an every-so-slightly boyfriend leg—should come as no surprise given that the designer has been making gams look great since 1987. Yes, it’s been 30 years. When congratulated, the designer seemed laid-back about the milestone: However, the showroom featured variations of a T-shirt marking the anniversary. It isn’t in the lookbook, but it deserves to be.
