New venue, new season, new time slot, and new direction—kinda—for Au Jour Le Jour. As Diego Marquez stressed preshow, this is still a tricksy collection with irony stitched throughout. But instead of focusing on theme or decoration as the vehicle for that playful instinct, Marquez and Mirko Fontana dug down into the essentials of their offer—the structure of their garments—to provide their punch lines.
Everything was inside out and upside down. Shirtdresses had collared hems and shoulder straps hanging down to the knee. One look featured a specially cut pair of jeans worn as a throw, while another a shirt transformed into a bustier. Another pair of jeans (and a sister pair of pants in black cotton) came with a kicked hem that ended with a waistband and a fly button at each angle. T-shirts were worn inside out with washing labels on show and stitching on display, but mirrored IRREVERSIBLE graphics were printed where you’d expect. Backpacks were attached to garments to provide hands-free, off-the-shoulder totage. Shoes featured backpack plastic buckles. A blue sweatshirt dress came with two necklines—one north, one south—with sleeves that emerged at the hip. Gabardine shirts and skirts were hemmed in lace and had inverted pocket details outlined in crystal. A closing sequinned top featured a scalloped double-breasted jacket in black pinstripe sequin worn as a skirt.
The whole wear-one-garment-as-another schtick has been tried many, many times, but here it was explored with focus, verve, and wit. Au Jour Le Jour’s bread and butter is clothes for women who want you to look twice. These clothes would most definitely compel you to do that—so even if you did conclude, upon second inspection, that she’d gotten dressed in the dark, this collection was mission accomplished.
