The runway at Acne Studios was shrouded with an enormous translucent shower curtain this afternoon. And as models hit the catwalk dressed in sugary pastel colors, the effect was something like looking inside a frosted jar of sherbet candy. That through a glass darkly conceit was merely temporary, though, and it wasn’t long before the plastic drapes were lifted on the brand’s Spring 2018 collection.
According to creative director Jonny Johansson, the show’s dramatic opener was a way to replicate the vantage point of an outsider. “I’ve always felt that I’ve been a bit apart from the system, and really, the collection was about exploring that idea,” he said backstage. Johansson summed up the inspiration in less conceptual terms as “thrift shop on acid.” There’s been a resurgence in secondhand nostalgia, and Acne’s version of it had a ’70s groove. Saturday Night Fever suiting abounded, with sexy satin blouses covered with a python print or tinged with zingy shades of lime and mint green. Traditional pinstripes were also given the disco treatment, with fine strands of metal fringing swinging along the lines of tailored trousers and pants. It was a nice way to whisk 9-to-5 dressing off into the night.
There were beach references that surfaced at the party as well. Johansson was inspired by the surfers of Biarritz, where he often vacations—hence, the shiny Hawaiian shirts and mesh polo tops. Like many designers right now, he’s been rethinking the notion of customization. Washed, over-dyed, then hand embroidered with thousands of sequins, the glittering jean shirt that was paired with a fringed crochet dress came with lots of glamour and personality. It also brought Johansson’s mission statement for the brand full circle, back to more humble beginnings: denim.
