The Alexandre Vauthier show was so lavishly New Romantic, but it was also so . . . Manet? Have a glance at the second look; it’s as though the painter’s Young Flautist from 1866 has evolved into a fabulous music icon. The designer confirmed the reference, and added that the penultimate look was his “dark Pierrot”—a little Jean-Antoine Watteau, a little Black Swan. Let the purists scoff; at least these fine art interpretations have resulted from fine fashion craftsmanship. And that’s the thing about Vauthier: For all the extremely sexy extravagance, he has an exacting eye and an individualist spirit. “I like that it’s a little anarchic but with the codes of couture,” he said.
Amid a runway staged with caging and neon lights meant to evoke a London nightclub, he expanded on last season’s Parisian disco fantasy with even more oomph: Gold tartan and zebra embroideries developed by Lesage, cascades of costume jewelry brooches from Goossens, reams upon reams of tulle, and purple alligator breeches were just a sampling of ingredients that contributed to his “aristo-punk” looks. Bows may have been extra-large; poet blouses extra-ruffled; shoulders extra-peaked; and Bella Hadid’s finale dress extra-short—yet the excess felt cathartic in some ways. So far, the collections elsewhere have been so seriously pretty, but Vauthier simply continues in the opposite escapist direction. Nevertheless, you can be certain these looks will make the leap to real life as a steady stream of photo ops. The slinky crystallized jersey dress in lipstick rouge would be an obvious stylist pick for an actress; the tartan frock coat worn with white jeans could prove a front-and-center editorial pick. His boots—holographic and pirate-style or chicly wrapped in plumetis—will be everywhere.
With this collection, Vauthier’s early years working for Jean Paul Gaultier came through more than usual, and the whiff of Yves Saint Laurent was unmistakable, too. But remove the sprays of tulle and blinged-up belts, and some rather dynamic investment pieces remain: a draped hoodie in clouds of silk or a perfect silk velvet bolero. As for the eyewear, the designer has collaborated with Alain Mikli, and the campaign, released today, features Kate Moss wearing two of the ultra-sleek styles. If anyone is suited to revive such a retro-future, ’80s must-have, it is Vauthier.
