Who would think that one collection could coherently span city tailoring and competitive-sailing gear? Under Zegna’s Alessandro Sartori, whose design role overarches all its products, the merge works because both sides of the equation are based on authentic company traditions rather than mere shallow athleisure trendiness. The story is that the Zegna family, which made its fortune as producers of excellent Italian tailoring, also has a long relationship with the sea. Having been involved with regattas in Portofino for over 36 years, Z Zegna now sponsors the high-tech racing yacht Maserati Multi70, skippered by Giovanni Soldini, and has produced a capsule collection of the kit. This might only be a side thing going on in the collection, but it stands as a kind of reassurance that this is a company that isn’t just going with the uncool flow of pretend sportiness that has spread all over the industry.
That’s a good thing. The Zegna sort of customer is not a man to be fooled, or fooled with, when it comes to the quality and realness of the product he wants to see. The sailing kit is just that, while the tailoring side has built-in technical innovation that doesn’t trouble the eye in any fancy way. On the surface: good wide-leg pants and jeans with a clean cut to the waist, paired with neat, unlined jackets. Deeper: technical benefits woven into the fabric that will delight practical men. There’s cotton woven at such high density that it becomes water repellent (the khaki three-piece of jacket, shirt, and chinos is an example). Showcased here, too, is the new trademarked Techmerino fabric, certified by the Woolmark Company, which means that tailored jackets and trousers can be thrown into the washing machine and come out looking just as good. For this level of usefulness, the price will be 1,300 euros for the suit. Compared to the price of womenswear, an absolute snip.
