Canali’s Spring splash came, almost literally, with the introduction of a new textile: “Impeccabile 2.0,” a fabric designed with “a global commuter” in mind. For this peripatetic man, movement is key, as is a level of weatherproofness. To achieve these not-always-easy-to-satisfy ergonomic demands, Canali’s specialists came up with a hyperfine wool that they then twisted with twice the normal amount of torque. The result is a crisp-but-breathable weave, which is finished with a water- and stain-resistant sort of shellac. And it looked good whether on proper sportswear, like a hooded checked raincoat, or in regular suit form. (How many times have you been caught in a downpour without an umbrella and wished your clothes were just a little less absorbent?)
Canali also had athletic-looking sneaker-wingtip footwear in its lineup (again, mobility) and stylishly simple jumpers and oxfords to boot. But while the technicality of Impeccabile is interesting, the fashion here didn’t really make any needles jump—the overall palette erred toward the slightly drab, and the silhouettes weren't anything new. Canali certainly doesn’t need to fix anything—it has hundreds of standalone stores globally and is in a 1,000-plus more doors—but in presentation format it could benefit from a bit more excitement and experimentation. Complementary dance performances today—demonstrating the new fabric’s properties—didn’t quite spark that flint.
