Fury road. It’s an apt descriptor as both the tonal takeaway of Boris Bidjan Saberi’s Spring collection, as well as his torturous runway show, which was held in a greenhouse-like mechanic’s shop with zero ventilation. It was, for sure, at least 100 degrees in there. (Also, and I’m not normally one to call these sorts of things out as stuff happens and pretty much everyone is stressed during Fashion Week, but a PR representative literally grabbed at me to make sure I was sitting in my correct seat. No “may I please see your ticket?”—just pure personal space invasion.)
But, onto brighter, burning notes. Saberi’s aggro-nomads wore heavily knitted tops, cutoff leather jackets, dirtied canvases, and sunglasses with side-eye protection (these were very nice). The palette was mostly rendered of charred browns and greens, until show’s end, when a series of hyper-saturated orange pieces stomped out (including sneakers, as part of an ongoing footwear linkup with Salomon). One standout was a tangerine MA-1 jacket, worn under a hooded leather micro-vest. De-styled, we can see this collection pulling in some new fans—it was less harsh, and more shrewd, than prior efforts. Despite the hell of enduring this show, the clothes themselves mostly delivered.
