A new chapter is beginning for Bally, the Swiss label that has recently undergone one of the stylistic earthquakes that periodically turn the fashion landscape upside down. Presented in a raw space that once housed a movie theater and where the company's new headquarters are under construction, the collection clearly indicated a new direction: more urban, practical, and upscale. The design team infused the compact lineup with a distinctive late ’70s–early ’80s vibe.
Among the zeitgeist-y riot of references were the DJ Afrika Bambaataa, rappers Slick Rick and Doug E. Fresh, the hip-hop duo Eric B. and Rakim, and graffiti artists and street photographers. The new Bally guy wears a perfectly tailored lightweight cagoule or a tracksuit in silk habotai, with trousers neatly tucked into socks. His retro sneakers are treasured replicas of Bally's most successful vintage lace-ups, resuscitated straight from the archives.
Logos are prominent throughout the collection in keeping with the current hype surrounding obsolete sportswear labels from the early ’80s; they turned up on canvas totes as a ribbon, printed on silk pajamas, and carved on the back of shearling jackets. Corduroy trousers are worn with matching zip-front track jackets, while oversize trench coats with raglan sleeves are neatly cut with an almost prim flair. After all, a Swiss hipster always keeps his head.
