There’s a subtle flair to Phillip Lim’s personal style that goes beyond the standard white-tee-and-jeans uniform of most designers. In fact, his eclectic jewelry, pleated trousers, and ’40s-style short-sleeved shirts have more in common with an artist in his studio than a fashion designer in his atelier. Cy Twombly, Pablo Picasso, and Jackson Pollack all had a working wardrobe that was almost as distinctive as their art, and they served as muses for the new 3.1 Phillip Lim menswear collection. You could see their influence in the paint-splattered workwear and swirling intarsia knits straight off the bat. Many of the more eye-catching abstract art–covered jackets came with a reversible canvas-color flip side, a clever two-for-one feature that is sure to attract practically minded male shoppers. For creative types who need a little executive realness in their lives, the easy, hand-painted pinstripe suits were a win-win for the boardroom, without any of the stuffiness.
Ultimately, Lim is at his best when he’s marching to the beat of his own drum with menswear, so it was a smart move to style the lookbook himself this season. The banana-leg sweatpants and layered sweatshirts in optic white and Yves Klein blue were a softer, more soulful approach to the moody, hype-beast streetwear that’s been percolating lately. Lim’s collarless denim tunics had far more personality than the ubiquitous hoodies and graphic tees on the street style circuit right now. Overall it made for an appealing portrait of the artist as himself.
