Sportmax was founded in 1969 as a more fashionable spin-off within the Max Mara Group. At the time, it picked up on the casualwear vibe that was starting to get traction, a younger, more affordable, and democratic version of the bourgeois and upscale prêt-à-porter. A sporty attitude was at the label’s core; Max Mara’s accurate industrial execution gave it an urban-yet-refined spin. Over the years, Sportmax has played with fashion, adapting its codes to au courant trends, losing a bit of its soul along the way. Resort seemed to mark a step forward by making a step back into the archives, precisely to ’90s minimalism, a style that suited Sportmax’s utilitarian streak just fine.
“A new approach to simplicity,” explained fashion director Grazia Malagoli, who knows the label’s heritage inside out, having been at the company for a long time; “we wanted to bring back a dynamic, sportif feel, which makes our sartorial silhouettes modern and compelling.” Vests and jackets had rounded, cocoon-like volumes, well calibrated yet powerful; funnel collars had a hint of the industrial; construction evidenced a discreet Japanese vibe, typical of the pivotal ’90s look, with geometric touches, a play on folding techniques, and origami decorations being focal points. The classic blazer came in elongated silhouettes, with technical detailings in ribbed knitwear; a structured leather coat in dramatic fire red was one of the highlights of the collection. Graphic touches like 3-D pockets were both decorative and practical; metallic zippers sneaking around bombers and coats allowed for manipulating shapes and volumes, a smart nod to the much-hyped need for individual customization and personal styling so in vogue today.
