Slovakian brand Nehera and its Paris-based creative director, Samuel Drira, discreetly parted ways earlier this season, so the Resort collection was accompanied from Bratislava by owner Ladislav Zdút and director Bibiana Zdútová. Of Drira’s tenure, the latter explained, “I’m really proud of what we created together. We reached a point after three years where we had to think about the future and we realized we saw the future differently. But we really want to keep and protect what we built because the brand is still the same.” And to a large extent, it was—at least judging by the trenchcoats, blousons, and billowy tops that made up this studio offering. Many of the ideas explored over previous seasons—adjustable details transforming silhouettes from body-grazing to boxy; peel-away zippers and buttons exposing hints of skin; a vast spectrum of beige; handcrafted accessories in wood and metal—maintained consistency. Inner shoulder straps within a camel trench furthered the Nehera styling of semi-undress; while new natural rubber sneakers, inspired by Czechoslovak Olympic runner Emil Zátopek, introduced an element of casual sport that felt fresh and grounded all those organic shapes.
Apparently, Drira selected some of the fabrics before his departure, which might explain the unique ivory bouclé covered with the finest layer of silk mousseline, or the perfect sturdy linen. Women who discovered the label thanks to his prepossessing minimalist approach will continue to appreciate the swooping drape of a sleeve or the sloped back of a white poplin shirt. Whether or not they knew his name, they were responding to these nuanced signatures. Truth be told, they may also have been aware of his occasional tendency to overthink a garment, and there was less of that here. Time will tell whether a deliberate shift toward more vibrancy (see the watercolor striped dress) and youthfulness via teamwork will be enough to replace a singular, sensitive vision.
