Anybody who missed David Koma’s Fall show for Mugler will be excused for calling the shoulders he did for Resort, major. While they may be quite powerful as far as such things go, in comparison to the peaked beauties of last season, they’re no shoulder at all. In fact, that’s precisely how Koma described them. As he explained at his presentation today, now that he’s been at the French house for three years, he’s serious about buckling down on cut. He’s in the business of measuring millimeters, and each and every one counts when you’re talking about a body-con leather dress with the Mugler logo screaming down the side à la motocross gear. The logo detailing felt like an easy nod to current trends. This label has such a strong signature—those shoulders, the hourglass fit—such nods aren’t really necessary.
Koma’s tailoring looked extra sharp today. With fewer and fewer of us wearing suits, he was clever to apply that razor focus of his to a strappy black jumpsuit. He said he was hoping that the sequined corset with a curvaceous bustline that looked particularly Thierry-ish would end up on a red carpet with the slim-line black pants he paired it with. He’s not the only one—down with the strapless mermaid dress. Playing against type worked for Koma, too. A long-sleeve slightly A-line dress with bare shoulders was languid in all the right ways.
