A summer garden might seem like a prosaic point of departure, but as envisioned by Jenny Packham for Resort, it became something well beyond ordinary. This was somewhat owing to a palette completely devoid of green. Beyond that, delicate raw-edged leaf embroideries, jagged “deconstructed” paillette flowers, and finely pleated poppies were proof that the designer wasn’t feeling boxed in. Surface detail comes easy to her, though; she could lay out the beading on a bodice and conceive the crystal lattice of a bolero overlay the way a landscaper plants roses and boxwood. Conversely, two multipurpose designs opened up the versatility of her evening wear. An embellished bodysuit, further developed from her most recent bridal offering, appears in the lookbook as a plunging halter with a tulle ball skirt, both in midnight blue. Now picture it with tuxedo pants, which Packham might wish to consider going forward.
See also the second-last look, whereby a cap-sleeved top with garlands of beading gives way to an open skirt of tulle; here, it is shown with tone-on-tone crepe pants; but again, imagine it with jeans or even, as the brand director suggested, a cheeky pair of briefs.
These separates, along with a Champagne-hued peplum top dripping with gold ornamentation, and a breezy top paneled in zigzagging sequins, are bound to draw different women into the go-to gown brand. Ideal scenario, they discover Packham’s unwaveringly refined approach and recognize the newness—including wispy “dragonfly wings” shooting up from shoulders, or else a blurred animal print paneled over with Lurex paisley. Within Packham’s repertoire, these count as wild. But it’s also plain to see she just wants women to pick their favorites.