“It shouldn’t just be commercial, because that doesn’t interest me.” So said Isabel Marant in June when we met to preview her Resort collection. Back then, orders were being placed for the offering now arriving in stores, and among the mix were certain pieces with undeniable commercial appeal: the cropped, slim black leather pants, a relaxed trenchcoat, and a versatile pair of loafer slides with contrast stitching.
But scan through the lookbook images and it becomes clear what the designer meant: After all these years, she can still evoke an ineffable Parisian vibe that pushes wearable fashion beyond the usual standbys. These pictures also reveal that the shoot took place in the immediate vicinity of the brand’s airy showroom with a view to the Place des Victoires—another sign that she was playing up the Parisian message this season. Whereas we perused the racks, pausing on pieces such as the pale, denim-like linen, you’re seeing how that same zip-front jacket and pair of slouchy pants have instant curb appeal as a total look. She singled out the silver-flecked suiting as a holiday party option, yet in the manner of Marant styling, it could easily be dressed down and worn anytime. Meanwhile, the drama was dialed up on shirts thanks to ruffled trim, broderie anglaise paneling, and borders in triangular lace. Her version of a carrot pant felt fresh—at least compared to the quilted items, an idea she continues to revisit.
Altogether, the collection came across as cool and confident, with wrap jackets and oversize coats registering more polished than bohemian, even as their shapes were very much relaxed. Marant said her intention was to propose clothes that would be “fresh and easy for the entire season,” and there was no reason to object. Actually, in the spirit of her updated Parisian statement, it seems most fitting to sum up her latest outing as soigné.
