This is the first Givenchy collection since the announcement of Clare Waight Keller as artistic director, hence the temptation to look for clues of her early influence in a visit to the Paris showroom. But given that she only began settling into her role a few weeks ago, the communications team underscored that this triptych lineup of monochromatic looks came entirely from the women’s (and men’s) studios. The maison, nonetheless, seems determined to not appear in limbo: The now-familiar Infinity and Horizon bags were given myriad makeovers, and Sway, a new, well-developed hybrid style, could easily become a mainstay. A flagship opened on the Via del Babuino in Rome two weeks ago, which explains the lookbook locations spread out across the Italian capital.
Each architectural backdrop loosely corresponded with the theme of each grouping, so what might qualify as the updated classics were positioned in front of the Museum of Roman Civilization with its mid-century modernist peristyle. Here, the construction of suiting in gauzy tulle and the total lace look comprised of a cape top and ample pleated lace trouser reaffirmed that Givenchy’s foundation—its workmanship—remains not only sound but seductive. Shooting the intensely blue “urban” repertoire at Corviale, an imposing Brutalist housing project southwest of Rome, offered an electrified contrast; a flounced workwear parka and filmy organza utility-pocket jumpsuit will appease the Givenchy constituency that hopes the label will maintain its cool curb appeal. The pieces saturated in fuchsia came closest to the all-red Fall collection presented upon Riccardo Tisci’s departure. Within the dark interior of the Palestra del Duce, the familiar Neo-Gothic influence appeared as a knockout dress assembled from a medley of lace; while the snarling Rottweiler sweatshirt made only a cameo this time, the house’s best friend had been cropped and tamed underneath an integrated silk blouse.
Altogether, the collection offered a striking, stylized hedge before Waight Keller defines Givenchy on her own terms. But whereas placeholder collections typically aim for inconspicuous, this one unmistakably marks the moment with unabashed Givenchy Spring ’18 messaging, as if aware that people will wear the label loud and proud, no matter who is at the helm.
