The sea was Elie Saab’s starting point for Resort. It’s a tried-and-true theme for this in-between season, so named because it once served well-off shoppers who had holiday-time cruises and beach vacations to buy for. Saab, of course, is primarily an eveningwear designer, so there weren’t the bikinis and caftans that you might expect elsewhere. Instead, he applied his seaside motifs to his signature tulle gowns; multicolor encrustations decorate the bodice of a V-neck style and another with a sheer capelet and cold shoulders. Coral and sea-life embroideries also decorated a terrific little tulle bomber that captured the sporty vibes he’s emphasized on his ready-to-wear runway in recent seasons.
For the most part, though, he sidelined the more casual attitude he’s lately embraced in favor of full-on glamour. The vivid tie-dye motif on a caftan gown evoked birds of paradise, and a deep green palm-leaf print on evening suiting called to mind J.Lo in that unforgettable cut-down-to-there Versace. Saab made a big play for accessories this season, too—not just mirrored sunglasses, shoulder-duster earrings, bangles by the wristful, and minaudieres, but crystal-studded stockings, too. It’s a good bet that when his Hollywood loyalists slip into his glittery one-shoulder gowns with the hip-high slits, they’ll hit the red carpet bare-legged.
