Dondup has recently undergone a restructuring; to steer the company towards international expansion and up its fashion ante, Au Jour Le Jour’s designers Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez have been appointed creative directors. The Resort collection bears their distinctive mark, a playful combination of street style–inspired staples, coquettish flair, and tomboy attitude.
Diego Marquez was on hand to expand on the collection’s new direction: “Dondup has an incredible know-how on industrial execution mixed with artisanal skills,” he mused. “We took full advantage of their heritage, but introduced a more fashionable spin.” It was apparent in a lineup refreshed with a play on the au courant masculine/feminine codes, peppered with references to ’70s pop music with a British vibe. A touch of don’t-take-me-too-seriously romanticism was also thrown in the mix for good measure.
Classic staples of the contemporary wardrobe were revisited with an eye to the Gosha Rubchinskiys of this world and their take on archival sportswear; tracksuits were given a funny evening twist, sparkling in silver lamé or trimmed with fringes of raffia and paillettes. Bold patches were appliquéd on neoprene sweatshirts or on tags dangling as key chains on track jackets. They were actually emblazoned with the names of music idols Dondup girls might be fond of: Elvis, John, David (family names unnecessary). The designers also tapped into the current craze for tape logos, which appear on the drawstrings that bedeck hoodie-parkas.
