Morocco famously inspired Yves Saint Laurent. So much so, in fact, that a museum in his name will soon open in Marrakech. Maybe that’s why the North African country is so much on the minds of designers this season. Or, then again, maybe not. In any case, Morocco was the starting point for Derek Lam’s latest, and quite a good collection it is. Lam spoke of his love for “in-between places” that are neither north nor south, west nor east, and he brought that sentiment to life in the lineup. It came across in the juxtaposition of tailoring—elongated, yet relaxed—and North African touches like a loose-fitting tile-print shift and an evening dress embroidered with the crosshatched lines of a Berber rug.
This season, Lam’s go-to trench comes collarless, with contrast lapels and different-color buttons left to right. He said he’s been re-watching Casablanca. While there was nothing here that Humphrey Bogart’s Rick could’ve realistically worn, the tailoring was nonetheless menswear derived. Trousers were loose and low slung or paper-bagged at the waist, and he layered silk jacquard flares or ankle-zip pants the color of cinnamon under crocheted dresses and chemisiers, in what looked like a subtle nod to North African custom. The handwork was exceptional on those deeply fringed crocheted dresses, but even more so on a pair of cabled-knit sweaters (one cropped, the other long and sleeveless like a tunic) in a chunky natural-colored yarn.
