The highlighter hues of lime and coral that burst forth from the latest Delpozo collection are surprising nods to nature—specifically, various extraordinary bodies of water around the world (a green lagoon within a volcanic crater of Lanzarote; the saline pink surface of Lake Hillier in Australia) that register far rarer than basic blue. To be clear, creative director Josep Font intensified these chromatic anomalies—so much so that the cascades of tulle in the final grouping of dresses were specially saturated to achieve peak punch. But the effect wouldn’t be nearly as compelling without the secondary influence of Loïe Fuller, the Belle Époque dancer whose captivating serpentine dance (take a moment and YouTube it) is a marvel of movement applied to material. While Font wasn’t aiming for quite that level of theatricality, his extended ruffled forms and shawl-style draping could have been screenshots from Fuller’s sequence.
Indeed, Font’s background in architecture has consistently produced strong dimensional silhouettes—see the newly realized ridged constructions arching upward around skirts and dresses—so his exploration of flow felt noticeably lighter and fresh this season. Likewise the recognizable color-blocked, polished looks in crisp poplin. For a label that positions itself as “demi-couture,” these registered as obvious entry points, and the full-skirted navy dress iced with fuchsia waist pleating would be as ideal for an art party as a night by the beach.
As for the striped linen, which Font suggested is noticeably different than anything he has done before, the wide-legged pant carved out with arched side openings (not visible in the photos) was original while still wearable—and less precious than some of the surface detailing elsewhere. A final shout-out goes to those petite bow cross-body/clutch hybrids, easily among the most irresistible accessories of the season so far.
