The signature abstractedly graphic meditations on circularity of Sophie Taeuber-Arp provided the starting point for a collection that contained many of David Koma’s signatures too.
The opening section featured tuxedo dresses peppered with satin buttons, sometimes with removable ostrich feather trims. A circular segment cutout at the hem of a button-dotted white dress augured the circular cutouts at the hip of a jumpsuit decorated with more circles of metal-set plexiglass. A white slip minidress with an arc of pink feathers that curved from hem to hip was seemingly simple, yet hard not to keep staring at.
Dresses in silk tulle with grids of flocked dots were both graphically austere and meaningfully sheer. On a white miniskirt, that tulle was teamed with ruffles of what Koma insisted was his oft-used scuba fabric, yet which seemed to this eye to be far too delicate to really pass muster in the sea. “You could totally dive in this!” riposted Koma, as he held up a more substantially fabricated open-shoulder blue scuba dress. You probably could.
