As a continuation of his Fall message, Andrew Gn drew from references far and wide, bypassing anything too literal and arriving at looks that were unquestionably luxe. The main development: a bright pastel palette in which icy blue made for a striking counterpoint to black. He introduced his lineup with what he dubbed his Maharaja coat; the version in pink Japanese obi silk featuring gold brocade chrysanthemums and butterflies from a 17th-century kimono, plus cuffs loaded with jeweled detailing, was the type of statement piece that you’d debut for a ceremonial luncheon and then treat more casually over time. Come to think of it, there was little in this collection that didn’t signal a special aspect. Even when Gn showed cargo pants, the linen had been washed three times and hand-fringed like fine upholstery fabric.
But the ladylike jackets and cocktail numbers didn’t look expensive simply because of the intricate embroidery. Additional care was taken to precisely align the patterns at their seams and to interpret classic couture fabrics such as tweed with noticeably updated techniques. All of this matters since the women who wear his clothes likely already own any number of his embellished designs. So, alongside the guipure lace blouses, which now constitute Gn’s core offering, he introduced plastrons of pearls and silk ribbons, delightfully calling the strands “fettuccine.” They cascaded whimsically down the kimono sleeves of an otherwise minimalist white gown, and made as striking an impact as the all-over beaded dress in icy blue with its borders of black filigree and feathers.
