Ferrara, Italy, is a long way from Pismo Beach, California. Matthew Williams grew up in the latter, and titled this Alyx collection Naomi Avenue after the street where he lived. The former is where he currently lives with his young family, and where he is growing his progressive, detail-driven brand. There, he is in direct and constant contact with suppliers, who he says he nudges—because they’re sometimes reluctant—to develop specialized or experimental techniques such as a sand-blasted, degradé effect on a leather coat; quilted jacket linings that call to mind a chain-link fence, or even a custom stitch that faintly resembles an A. “I spend enough time obsessing over these things that I just want to make my best version,” he explained, as he pointed to a tactical vest tacked into a blazer. “I’m taking garment and fabric development as far as I can.”
Aesthetically, though, Williams’s personal references seem to be merging more tightly together: the Cali subculture and music scene (see the multi-pouched “Coachella vest” of look five), raw New York individualism, and now, increasingly, finessed Italian tailoring. When was the last time you noticed stiff metal cord laced through the sides of a sweater or looped around the back of a jacket? Depending on its placement (an Allen key is provided to reposition or remove it), you end up with a newly structured sweater or, when ringed outward from a jacket, a provocative way to mark personal space. Marina Abramović, we’re looking at you! Indeed, she’d likely appreciate the gory yet endearing back story behind the blue Rorschach-like print: a napkin used by Williams’s artist friend, Jim Joe, to wipe away the traces of ink and blood while giving Williams a stick-and-poke tattoo of his newborn daughter’s name. Like other strong statements in this Resort lineup, it will probably return in the main season. “If we want to get an idea right for Spring, we’re starting those concepts now,” he said. “I’m trying to make garments that will really stand the test of time in people’s closets.” On that note, the collaboration with Mackintosh surely applies. One of the styles was shown inside-out (Look 11) to demonstrate Alyx’s strong yet subtle influence.
