At his showroom today, Joseph Altuzarra talked about mixing urban and rural references. He said his touchstones for Resort were the films American Psycho and Working Girl, both of which portray Manhattan corporate culture in the ’80s, and the traditional lacework and floral motifs of Brittany, France. An unlikely combination, maybe, but one that worked rather well because of his larger project, which was to inject the clothes with a new sense of ease. “It’s a softer, relaxed collection,” he said. Altuzarra arrived on the scene with a design identity stamped in Paris; he specializes in a sensual allure, hourglass tailoring, and side slits—and it seduces. But with the world tilting in a more casual direction—see the athleisure phenomenon, see fashion’s rush to streetwear—he’s doing some timely rejiggering of the formula.
Think Working Girl, think Wall Street, and think pinstripes. Tailoring is a key category for Altuzarra, but there were no straight-up suits here. In fact, his only true two-piecer came in shocking pink; otherwise he split up his suits, an idea he said he picked up from clients who’ve been wearing—and buying—their tailored pieces separately. The corporate raider connotations of those pinstripes, meanwhile, were tempered by cut and fit; in one case he cut them into an apron dress, in another he layered a lace slip under a cropped jacket. Banker button-downs got a rethink too, with collars peeling off the shoulders and the placket removed to the side of the torso. Sometimes he layered a snug, smocked bandeau over the top of them. Not boardroom-ready, but that’s entirely the point. Draped under jackets, Brittany’s traditional scarves, or fichus, further deformalized his tailoring.
And don’t get it wrong, there was still plenty of that signature allure, but in a decidedly lower key. His most innovative idea for evening was pairing a sequin- and flower-embroidered tulle cape with a bright pink camisole and, marking a first for brand Altuzarra, dark rinse jeans.
