For Resort, Albino Teodoro was inspired by the Dutch still-life painter Willem van Aelst. Even if the reference could feel a bit old-fashioned, what fascinated the designer was the artist’s extraordinary color palette, which was translated into many variations of pink, from geranium to pale petal to intense blush to flame red. “I was feeling romantic,” said the designer. “But not too much. I just wanted to make my tailoring softer, a little lighter, with a breezy feel.”
Teodoro paired strict, precise cuts with 3-D embroideries in filmy fabrics or opulent textures, in a play of light-handed deconstruction and pared-down decoration. A chic opera coat had a slim silhouette, enhanced by rich floral motifs that, at first glance, looked printed but were in fact actually woven with a high-definition jacquard technique that made colors brighter, almost as if Instagram-filtered.
Fabrics had a luxurious feel and were full-bodied and smooth, giving luscious substance to simple, clean lines, as in a tunic cut as a rectangle in satin duchesse, printed with bold black and white stripes. A feminine full skirt in silver and gold brocade had a sumptuous yet modern feel worn with a ruffled poplin top. Teodoro also tried his hand at a few men’s looks, playfully infusing classic, androgynous shapes like a trench coat, a parka, and a city coat with a fashionable, feminine spin via printed floral patterns and eccentric turquoise or geranium faille. It looked quite promising.
