Propelled by the momentum at Versace, the creative twentysomethings at Versus injected the label’s Pre-Fall collection with a self-assured sense of street-cool fun. While keeping a keen focus on wearability, sustainability, and—why not?—commercial viability, they retained the “wild at heart” mystique that sits firmly at this little-sister brand’s core.
Working under Donatella Versace’s watchful eye, the Versus team employs a crafty “cut and paste” technique. They don’t need to buy vintage to copy, nor do they embark on the research expeditions that are normal practice for design studios. Rather, they have an archive so vast and so influential—“thousands of pieces of genius,” they call it—that they simply rework directional staples by hand, tearing apart and reassembling T-shirts, bombers, dresses, and whatever else they find interesting. They like to say, “The answers here are all within the house.”
Sustainability has become a big issue at the company; Donatella is eager to achieve a long-term commitment and believable results. Fabrics are now mostly made from natural fibers because synthetic blends can’t be recycled, and the process of making sustainable denim (not easy) is being seriously addressed. These concerns matter to a young generation of customers. Fashion-wise, they’re responding to a functional, no-nonsense wardrobe in which glamour mixes easily with activewear and sportswear. Comfort and ease of movement are paramount, as is an irreverent, sexy, take-it-or-leave-it attitude.
Stretchy leggings and bodysuits were shown with oversize hoodies featuring macro logos reminiscent of a ’90s film poster, while the house’s signature lion print was emblazoned on denim, tabards, and ballerina dresses. Apparently, the logo craze is far from over. An assertive-looking orange bomber was an example of the crafty manipulation that is the design team’s working mantra: Draped, ruched, and gathered in circular stitched motifs, it had a handmade feel, yet it was flavored with a tough vibe. “Go big or go home,” it seemed to scream.
