Ralph Lauren has honed a fair number of American sportswear tropes beyond the preppy polo shirt over the years. This season he’s giving many of those beloved and highly recognizable classics a subtle but unexpected twist. It all started when the designer washed the traditional cashmere camel coat with a moody, slate gray finish. Things get a lot more futuristic from there, with a mirrored silver leather aviator jacket, silvery trench, and full silver-coated flight suit that takes the tradition of American workwear quite literally to the moon. Still, Lauren isn’t the kind of designer to lose sight of a traditional idea of a wardrobe. In fact, some of the most quiet reworkings end up standing out the most here, including a navy shawl tuxedo blazer with a slightly slouchy, distinctly casual fit.
Though the idea of athleisure doesn’t entirely fit the rarefied mold of the brand—lest we forget, Lauren is best known for dressing women for the global spotlight; the Hillarys and Melanias of the world—there’s clearly an emphasis on comfort in his new collection, even if his approach cleaves more luxurious than anything else. Case in point: Pretty Lurex sweaters and pleated skirts have a soft cashmere lining that’s spun with the reassuring coziness of a baby’s blanket. They’d be a nice proposition for cocktail hour.
