Nehera is in a transitional phase. The label parted ways with its Paris-based creative director last season, and owner Ladislav Zdút and his wife, creative director Bibiana Zdútová, have set about re-situating the personality of a nearly century-old brand.
Originally founded in the 1930s, Nehera went from a small Czechoslovakian tailoring enterprise to a well-known player in Western Europe. In its contemporary iteration, the company is focusing on organic, natural shapes and fabrics; architectural lines; and local sourcing.
The Pre-Fall collection focused on the “presence of nature,” with varying results. The earthy color palette—deep green, beige, rust, sky blue—was right on cue, as were easy cropped trousers, “smart” track pants in jersey and wool, and roomy menswear-inspired shirts in washed poplin.
“We try to make it easy to wear, but with classic, tailored details,” explained Zdútová. On one side, it’s minimal; on the other, it’s “relaxed fancy.” A double-face, reversible coat can be adjusted to be worn long or short. While versatility is always a plus, the coat felt ever so slightly fussy in the shorter version.
Shirtdresses were more dress than shirt, most beguilingly in a variation that brought together soft gathers and a structured line. Prints inspired by the connection between nature and urban living reprised the rings of a cut tree trunk, painted over in hues of blue and brown and rendered as a pretty camouflage-Cubist mash-up. A burgeoning accessories line included the label’s top-selling triangle shoulder bag, plus another that can be worn three ways: as a cross-body, belt bag, or clutch.
