Massimo Giorgetti is set to open his first London store in 2018; supposedly, he had this in mind when working on his MSGM Pre-Fall collection, which was inspired by (what else?) Britain’s post-punk, new-wave music and street fashion scene. “I was a big fan of Dame Viv,” he said, referring to Vivienne Westwood, whose punkish T-shirts were plastered on the mood board, alongside photos of Sid Vicious and Siouxsie Sioux of the Banshees. Yet for all this would-be-punky background, Giorgetti is a preppy at heart. Proof were pictures from the ’50s of American students, radiant and prim in their uniforms. But who cares? Designers’ mood boards are more often than not an inextricable web of clashing references.
Giorgetti launched his first MSGM collection in 2009; next year, he will celebrate his 10th anniversary. The label is a commercial phenomenon; it has steadily grown into a healthy company, thanks to a contemporary price point. Energy and color and optimism prevail at MSGM, and Pre-Fall was no exception.
The core of the collection was a new denim capsule, with an MSGM Jeans logo emblazoning shirtdresses, high-waisted pants, and oversize trucker jackets—a complete head-to-toe denim look, accessorized with chunky, white tractor boots. The designer riffed on the theme, playing with styling. A denim cape coat hybrid, worn with matching slim pants with bow details looked cool, as did an oversize trench paired with high-waisted loose boyfriend trousers.
The post-punk-meets-preppy inspiration was in evidence on silk dresses patch-worked with a medley of fabrics and floral prints, or on big logo sweaters worn with loose tartan trousers. Satin bombers with knitted sleeves, puffa jackets, blanket coats, and tartan-printed macs had the de rigueur oversize proportions, while a gigantic rose motif sprouted here and there in look-at-me, brighter-than-bright saturated colors.