Ask Isabel Marant to explain how she arrives at a new collection season after season and she’s often at a loss for words. And that’s just fine; rather than a strategic approach to design, Marant’s seems instinctive—and more so after all these years. With this one, she seemed determined to play down any major statement. “It’s chic but not a big deal,” she said, adding that this well-calibrated wardrobe showed sophistication without formality. “You’re not obligated to dress up.” But to the extent that you can detect dressed up when you see it, details as seemingly minor as a stretch brocade or the peaked, slightly puffed shoulder recurring on blouses and dresses were enough to make a noticeable difference.
It would have been impossible to miss the ample pullover in vivid purple, one of many strong colors among the offering (see also: the corduroy pants and jeans in sky blue and jade, and a sexy wrap skirt in lacquered claret). In commercial terms, the variety of prints appearing on wrap dresses, ruched skirts, and twisted-neck blouses will look good in stores as a breezy bridge from mid-June through October.
If the review stopped right here, you could be forgiven for thinking this was a particularly colorful proposal, when in fact, many of the monochrome pieces stand a better chance of ending up in your closet. A white leather T-shirt dress backed with black jersey, for instance, reaffirmed Marant’s comment; turn up the cuffs and wear it often. Consider, too, the black dress with a vaguely historical shoulder and longer hemline. For while this collection didn’t serve up any one hero piece, the sleeper hits were plenty.
