The marble hall of the Palais de Justice is such an imposing venue—in vastness as well as symbolism—that Clare Waight Keller’s debut at Givenchy in early October was, to some extent, overwhelmed by both architecture and expectations. Simply by situating this pre-collection in a private home in Kent, south of London, the maison’s first female creative chief and native Brit has signaled a more personalized yet no less aspirational vision. She confirmed as much when we spoke by phone, since the Paris showroom visit did not sync with her weekly Channel commute. “There’s something about a domestic environment that feels relevant to me right now; it feels connected to the way we actually live and where we see ourselves,” said Waight Keller.
The intimate outdoor-indoor setting also accommodates two of the season’s key statements: covetable faux fur and enveloping shearling coats, plus versatile pleated skirts and dresses. Yes, regarding the former, she’s a convert, convinced that today’s light, luxe alternatives measure up, especially when boasting graphic herringbone or zigzag patterning and high-impact volume. “It feels much more modern to be looking away from the past in that aspect,” said Waight Keller. “There are newer ways to presenting old ideas.”
Apply this sentiment beyond fur and you arrive at the revival of the heritage 4G emblem, which existed long before broadband networks but has been relegated to Givenchy’s beauty packaging. Here, it’s been deployed boldly on sweaters and as subtler punctuation points. Get ready to see a lot more of it. But Waight Keller’s strongest mark on the house so far is how she is rethinking a familiar town-and-country mix. Everyday pieces have become color-blocked in hues as throwback as they are hyper-saturated (apparently, using red was a big deal for her). All those clean botanical and spotted prints are shared across the men’s and women’s collections (note the anthuriums, which The New York Times recently declared “an It flower”). Her emphasis on strong-shoulder tailoring, along with the presence of longer, fluid skirts and chic studded leather pants, all reference historic codes without stiffness. Meanwhile, her evening dresses, with their cascades of pleats and panels of velvet, are a deft departure from Riccardo Tisci’s adventures in transparency and tease at the couture to come.
As for the men’s offering, the designer said she’s aiming to establish a broader base, which for the moment seems like a commercial hedge. But the new GV3 bucket bag and pointed bicolor boots are destined to turn heads, just as the artisanal zodiac earrings prove a striking, individualized finishing touch (they were inspired by vintage cigarette cards). “You feel the strong character,” said Waight Keller, who is a Leo. Sure enough, that creative side is coming through.
